Tuesday, May 20, 2008

Rotorua



We flew from Christchurch back to the North Island for a few days. It's true that Rotorua smells like sulfur (rotten eggs) but you've just got to go there. The town is in the center of a huge volcanic crater and is surrounded by geothermal parks. What does that mean? Parks full of boiling mud, supernaturally colored ponds, geysers and very deep holes in the ground emitting very strange sounds. This is active volcano territory. The last eruption was in 1886. Not to worry.

Within about 15 minutes you really don't notice the smell. Okay, every now and then it wafts up at you, but then it goes away again. We stayed at the Princes Gate Hotel. Very pretty.



And right next to the lovely Government Gardens.



But what's up with the funky water in this pond? A hint of things to come?


Past the gardens you reach the lake. You can take airplane or helicopter tours of the volcanic geothermal area. Nah, I wanted to walk right in and get up closer. I feel like I just walked into season 4 of LOST.


More pretty sights, like black swans and their babies.


Then things start to get weird. Cameron's Laughing Gas Pool. Supposedly a soak in these warm mud pools makes you feel rather euphoric, just before you faint. Could this be the reason for the long pole kept nearby, to shout at people and pull them out just before it is too late?



We had dinner in town at The Pig & Whistle pub. How could we not? The next day we took Elite Adventure's half day "eco thermal tour" led by a Ben, a Maori guide full of great stories. First stop, some steaming, bubbling, boiling mud pools.


Really. It's hard to explain so just watch this 25 second video. Stand back.




On we go to the Wai O Tapu "wonderland of geothermal activity." Wai O Tapu means Sacred Waters in Maori.


Yes. That's the Devil's Home.

Warning: Please keep strictly to the formed pathways. Happy to obey. Very strange sounds come from down there. Ben says that he was an extra on Lord of the Rings, an Orc. He and a buddy carried Frodo and Sam on their backs. He also helped work on the sound. They dropped microphones down into these volcanic holes to create the creepy sounds of the orc caverns.



Don't hesitate. Just follow Ben.



to the Champagne Pool. As in bubbly.


And Lake Ngakoro. Yes, intensely neon green.



After this cold and foggy morning walk, Ben knows just what we need. Hot chocolate at the gift shop. Then a van ride to the tamed Lady Knox geyser. Park staff hop over the railing, walk right up and drop a bit of soap in there to make sure it goes up on schedule for the tourists.


Back in the van, to the Waimangu volcanic valley. This is what comes 100 or so years after a volcano erupts.


Down we go into post-volcano paradise.


Ben says this path was decorated with added greenery and used to film the hobbits leaving home.


After lunch at the gift shop, Ben drives us back to our hotel and back to the normal world. I mean New Zealand normal, where cows keep the roadside grasses under control. Ben says this is illegal and causes quite a few accidents each year. Those occasional craters and ridges in the fields? Just a little earthquake activity.

This afternoon it's back to Auckland for one more day before our flight home. One last odd thing before we leave. I couldn't get a photo, but along the road we passed a deer farm. Yep, deer acting just like cows, nibbling the grass inside a fenced pasture. Some earl's son or other imported a few deer to hunt long ago. Now they raise deer on farms for venison and skins.

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